View Full Version : clutch is fucked
kitkatman
25-03-2008, 09:34 PM
and needs replacing...getting the new plates at the weekend ( would have been last weekend, but me mate forgot to order them to go with the clutch cover gasket!)...
so how bad are they to do.......easy or start screaming and hitting things with hammers!
kwaka en454
madastoast
25-03-2008, 09:41 PM
generally it's a case of removing kick start and then clutch casing.
once you get to the clutch basket it's usually 4 or 6 bolts and springs. remember how they came off and replace in the same order.
kitkatman
25-03-2008, 09:44 PM
generally it's a case of removing kick start and then clutch casing.
once you get to the clutch basket it's usually 4 or 6 bolts and springs. remember how they came off and replace in the same order.
electric start.......how will the clutch cable conector sit... is it easy to get off and on again
madastoast
25-03-2008, 09:45 PM
I usually tippex the bugger to give me clue where it should be :D
hacky
25-03-2008, 09:50 PM
as a guide id say easier than changing your oil... :D :D
jabba
25-03-2008, 09:57 PM
Its easy just have a nice clean area to put your bits in the order you removed em and take your time. :D
http://www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm
You sure its the clutch? Make sure the cable aint binding/is adjusted properly and try changing the oil, I thought it had not done that many miles........oh I forgot about all the blubber it has to pull now.
kitkatman
26-03-2008, 07:24 AM
You sure its the clutch? Make sure the cable aint binding/is adjusted properly and try changing the oil, I thought it had not done that many miles........oh I forgot about all the blubber it has to pull now.
cheeky sod......
I have adjusted the clutch as much as I can and it is right on the limit, if I have the bike on the centre stand and engage 1st gear with the clutch in, the rear wheel starts to turn....I will be doing a oil change after I have done the clutch plates ( and cooling fluid change), so either the plates are sticking or are fucked, so either way the casings got to come off...
with he new carbon plates, is it wise to marinade them in oil for a while before installing them
I can see me doing all this and then selling the fuckin thing once she is up and running properly....don't know whether I like it!
growl bunnie
26-03-2008, 07:47 AM
Main problem can be getting the clutch basket centre nut undone.
last time i had to do mine i had to fire up my compressor and put the air rachet on it!
gothtec
26-03-2008, 07:57 AM
What type of plates have you ordered?
I'm a little heavy with clutches and would like something that can take a little roughness.
kitkatman
26-03-2008, 08:14 AM
What type of plates have you ordered?
I'm a little heavy with clutches and would like something that can take a little roughness.
aint got a clue, I go to and tell my mate what I need and he orders them.....so more likely standard
I aint to bad on the clutch, not knackered one myself yet, this just came like it
Pugwash
26-03-2008, 08:35 AM
use standard clutch plates
soak em in oil overnight (the new ones dummy :p
pull the casing (undo the bolts 1st)
undo the bolts evenly holding the centre plate in , otherwise you can cause spring binding and weaken one or more springs
Clutch Hub Centre Nut -- there a bastid -- find out the Torque Setting for the nut in ft lbs anything from 80-150 ft lb's usually
now then get a 2p piece drill a small hole near one edge , add a piece of string or a cable tie to it (this way you don't drop it inside the motor and need to split the cases)
Behind the Hub they'll be 2 sets of geared Teeth place the 2p between the teeth and Gently turn the Hub till the teeth bite the 2p
Now then with a decent Qualitly socket and bar undo the Nut take a decent pull on it if yer pussyfoot with it you'll either tip the bike over or the socket will slip off and bugger the nut
if there ain't enuf reach and u need to add a extenshion bar use the shortest one you have you really really don't won't to round off the clutch hub nut
to put it back on do the reverse put the same 2p on the oppisite side of the teeth and tighten up
ideally do this lot on he bike has on the centrestand if the bike has one , if not get a mate to hold the bike still , no point them sitting on it they'll just be in the way and if you clump em with the socket bar they'll be well pi55ed off :p
***if it still don't budge (i did mention there a bastid didn't i) next thing is to get a length of tube /scaffold bar and add that to the bar yer using for even more leverage
put it this wiay using the above and a scaffold bar plus 2 mates i eventually got a clutch hub nut off a gpz1100 ...............eventually and without any breakage ;)
Mitch
26-03-2008, 09:02 AM
if it's standard Kwak centre nut, it's a big 30mm socket - it is on GTs anyway.
Get a socket that only has a hexagonal shaped hole. Don't go for one of those silly 12 sided or whatever, as you will nadger up the nut.
I used a set of mole grips to do the same job as the 2p and it worked fine - same as using one of those clutch 'special' tools.
What Pugwash and Mitch said. :)
trikerdrew
26-03-2008, 01:48 PM
good to see common sense being used :D
Was going to post up about the 2p trick,doh :rolleyes:
If ya get stuck for monster socket give us a yell,yeah?3/4 inch drive rocks.
drew
kitkatman
26-03-2008, 03:40 PM
http://www.dansmc.com/clutches.htm
acording to this piccy, i need only to take of the sprung screws and the rest will slide out or am i looking at this wrong
madastoast
26-03-2008, 03:57 PM
acording to this piccy, i need only to take of the sprung screws and the rest will slide out or am i looking at this wrong
Works for me Keith :D
Pugwash
26-03-2008, 04:07 PM
Nice try Keith but.........................
http://img37.imagevenue.com/loc792/th_47398_454_clutch_122_792lo.jpg (http://img37.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=47398_454_clutch_122_792lo.jpg)
p:s yer that's your Clutch
look in here for a complete parts list wiv pics
https://www.kawasakiepc.com/SystemSearch_Frames.cfm?QuickSearch=1&SearchFor=EN450%2DA5&SearchBy=Model&cGroupID=&CFID=1042725&CFTOKEN=11998114
.....i think the Inner Basket has to be Removed to change the plates
there again if i'm wrong yer saved loads of grief m8 :p
p:p:s it's for a USA Spec 454 similar parts but not all the same they usually have more wires stupid speedo's and more bling :D
kitkatman
26-03-2008, 04:08 PM
Works for me Keith :D
in other words..........this will be fun with the hammer throwing session lobbed in for nothing :D
Dougie
26-03-2008, 04:11 PM
Yeah,you only have to remove that big feck-off nut if yer doing a complete clutch stripdown.To change the plates you just have to undo the bolts for the clutch springs,the alloy (or steel) top plate comes off then the clutch plates themselves can pull out.I've done that at the side of the Forth Road Bridge toll booths when my clutch burnt out thanks to losing the link rod from the gear change (but that's another story.....).It's pretty simple.Mebbe replace the clutch springs as well?
kitkatman
26-03-2008, 05:04 PM
Yeah,you only have to remove that big feck-off nut if yer doing a complete clutch stripdown.To change the plates you just have to undo the bolts for the clutch springs,the alloy (or steel) top plate comes off then the clutch plates themselves can pull out.I've done that at the side of the Forth Road Bridge toll booths when my clutch burnt out thanks to losing the link rod from the gear change (but that's another story.....).It's pretty simple.Mebbe replace the clutch springs as well?
good man, thats the news i have been after, now then, when i take the clutch plate off, will the clutch cable conector thing 'pop' off or will the be a c-clip ect.....
madastoast
26-03-2008, 05:09 PM
good man, thats the news i have been after, now then, when i take the clutch plate off, will the clutch cable conector thing 'pop' off or will the be a c-clip ect.....
If all you're doing is changing the plates you shouldn't have to ferk about with that. just loosen it off to release the pressure
kitkatman
26-03-2008, 05:13 PM
If all you're doing is changing the plates you shouldn't have to ferk about with that. just loosen it off to release the pressure
sorry, what i meant was the outer caseing.....also whilst i am going to do it, before i change things and take things to bits, after i have dropped the oil, i was thinking about running some of that engine cleaner stuff through the bike to clean the sh1t out of the engine ( if there is any) its not like i have to worry about the clutch being fucked up....do that, have a drain off and then replace the carbons and gasket and replace the oil.....
addjunkie
26-03-2008, 07:37 PM
I would agree with replacing springs as well as plates, it has been known that the plates will live a little longer with new stiffer springs. i hate halfords but they do sell a decent range of single sockets, for stuff like this
kitkatman
27-03-2008, 06:01 PM
thanks for the advice guys and girls, did the plates today and it was a lot easier than i thought, infact the hardest bit was getting the old gasket of the clutch cover....the old plates were fucked with a capital F, i have more hair on my head than they had carbon :D
road tested the kwaka after i shoved the bars a bit more forward and found it a very pleasant ride, ragged its arse of over the local bypass and i can get 105mph out of it with my fat arse on it, not a touch on th FJ ( o how i miss her :( ), but shes now rideable.....now to sort out the water works.....see thread comming soon :D
thanks all
keith
Mitch
27-03-2008, 08:08 PM
...now to sort out the water works.....see thread comming soon :D
Yours or the bike's mate? ;) :D
Glad you got it sorted Keith. The cooling system on kwaks isn't too bad... used to have probs on Lou's old ZL, but they weren't too bad to sort out.
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