what pitch

[davesatan]

need to clean out some holes on some powder coated bits anyone know what pitch the holes are
love and respect dave

[Mad Dog]

How would we know?
Bits of what?
Could be Metric or Imperial, just for starters.

And, any decent powdercoater puts a bolt in the hole to stop this happening.

[RebuiltYorkie]

How would we know?
Bits of what?
Could be Metric or Imperial, just for starters.

And, any decent powdercoater puts a bolt in the hole to stop this happening.

True, True! That kind'a detail would help! Davestan,you had along day kidda? ;)

[GSX Hooligan]

[QUOTE=Mad Dog]Could be Metric or Imperial, just for starters.

[QUOTE]


It's a fair bet it'll be one of these 2!

:D :D :D

[Tom-madbiker]

or possibly on a harley unc or unf :)

[Sir Ewok]

or AF, Whitworth on old Brits or even BSF!

[Mad Dog]

So,

to summarise, we have been able to narrow it down to:-

Metric Fine
Metric Coarse
American Fine
British Standard Fine
Whitworth
UNC
UNF
Or possibly a hand cut one-off thread as found on traction engines.

piece of cake ! :D

He'll be so pleased when he come back :D

[davesatan]

on a kwak kh250 i guess metric

[Dougie]

What size?M6,M8,what?

[Mad Dog]

on a kwak kh250 i guess metric

Right, that helps.

Now, do you have any of the bolts that came out of those holes?

If so, measure the diameter across the threaded bit. That will give you the "M" number in mm. Then you can get either a thread cleaner or a thread cutter of that size.

[Bassman]

Maybe if you put a piccy of the frame on here, and a piccy of the bolts, some of these computer wizzes could work their magic, and clean em out for yer!! :D

[GSX Hooligan]

or possibly on a harley unc or unf :)

still either imperial or metric though!
:D :D :D

[GSX Hooligan]

Right, that helps.

Now, do you have any of the bolts that came out of those holes?

If so, measure the diameter across the threaded bit. That will give you the "M" number in mm. Then you can get either a thread cleaner or a thread cutter of that size.

but make sure that if it is metric you dont use a course tap in a fine hole or vice versa, you find out by counting the threads per inch (or should that be mm as it's metric!?!)........

[Sir Ewok]

I still think thred pitch is TPI, but not absolutely sure about metric (Bloody foreigners). :confused:

[RebuiltYorkie]

I still think thred pitch is TPI, but not absolutely sure about metric (Bloody foreigners). :confused:

I think metric is noted as sush 6m x 1.00mm fine, 6m x 1.00 course.

6m being the size of the bolt, and 1.00mm being the thread pitch?

I arn't often wrong, but I could be right this time? Lol :D :D :D

[guydewdney]

what about G Minor?

<boring mode>
M5 - 0.8mm pitch

M6 - 1mm pitch

M8 - 1.25mm pich

M10 - 1.25mm pitch

M12 - 1.5mm pitch

M5 - 4mm allen / 8/7/6mm spanner (the size used for switchgear usually

M6 = 5mm allen key / 10 or 8 mm spanner (engine casing / general small stuff)

M8 - 12 mm spanner (if jap, 13 if european) 6mm allen

M10 - 15 spanner, sometimes 17 8mm allen key

</boring mode>

[Sir Ewok]

Is that the pitch for Metric Coarse or Fine?

[Tom-madbiker]

just in case anyone is interested metric coarse (normal sizes on jap bikes) thread piches
M3 ie 3mm od 0.5 pitch
m4 - 0.7 pitch
m5 - 0.8 pitch
m6 - 1mm pitch
m8 - 1.25 pitch
m10 - 1.50 pitch
m12 - 1.75 pitch
m14 - 2mm pitch
m16 - 2mm - pitch
hope this helps :)

[Tom-madbiker]

M12 - 1.5mm pitch

this is wrong :)

[Sir Ewok]

Could that not be metric fine?

[guydewdney]

the japs use a mixture - M10 is supposed to be 1.5, but all jap bikes use 1.25.

I guessed the M12 size TBH...

[RebuiltYorkie]

the japs use a mixture - M10 is supposed to be 1.5, but all jap bikes use 1.25.

I guessed the M12 size TBH...

My ole 77 GL seems to have a good mixture from M3 right up 19mm; on the engine most bits (Head cover, manafold inlet pipes, etc...) seem nearly all to be of 6m x 1.00mm pitch. On the frame most spannering is sorted with 12mm, 13mm 14mm right through to 19mm spanner. I can't be arsed to look at the pitch all the time, If I need a replacement I just take the bolt to the boltman, an get it; although when the need arises I normal swap the original jap bolt for a stainless steel one. They hold up to spannering alot better than the cheap crap things that were put in a the factory :)

[Blackjack]

............................. They hold up to spannering alot better than the cheap crap things that were put in a the factory :)

Little known fact No. 1107:-

Japanese factory bolts from the 70's are in fact made of zinc plated cheese. Whilst being of limited use as fasteners they can make a tasty snack, as well as helping to clear up a cold due to the zinc content.

[dracken1]

ahh the 70's.. thats when i discovered that little known beast at the time "the impact driver" the one where if you hit it to hard the rotating collar used to switch between clockwise and anti clockwise would pinch the flesh on your hand :(

[Tom-madbiker]

a truly wonderful piece of kit a must for all jap bikes :)

[Sir Ewok]

Also a wonderful device for ripping the heads of aforementioned Zinc-coated cheese. Back in the 60's I pioneered the technique for removing Spark plugs from ally heads (welded in through electrolisis) with 18" Stilsons. Everything else had failed, even the Britool sockets, which split. Knocked two fins off for access and away she whent. A bit kill or cure, but when somebody gives you a 600cc side-valve Ariel, what have you got to lose. It only needed the magdyno cleaning out and a new set of points (and a new plug of course) and she fired up fist time. The bike got it's own back by back-firing on kickstart and breaking my knee joint......... Happy Days :cool:

[addjunkie]

if its an old kwak particularly a triple ask on www.classickawasakiclub.com

there are many very knowlegeable peeps on there, i have a 75 h1 and found all the answers ive ever needed there. Failing that contact the guru rick brett at his site odly enough www.classickawasaki.com